If you look at the ingredients in your skin care products, you’ll probably find both squalane and squalene in them. Yes, they may sound like the same ingredient, and technically they are, but believe it or not, one letter has a big impact on where you find it and how you use it.
Trust me, it’s going to get a lot more confusing before it all makes sense! But don’t panic, let’s learn more about this wonderfully moisturizing molecule.
What is the difference between squalene and squalane?
Squalene occurs naturally in the body and helps the skin look younger, softer, and more hydrated. Just like everything else produced in the body, it starts to deteriorate as we age, and the body is no longer able to keep the skin barrier’s moisture at the right levels, leading to fine lines, wrinkles, and other issues.
Applying squalene to your skin should solve this problem. However, as effective as squalene may be, it’s not very stable and can’t be mixed into skin care product formulas unless it’s hydrogenated and processed into squalane, a stable form of the molecule. That’s why you’ll find that the powerful emollient in skin care products is actually squalane. The simplest way to think of it is this: Squalene and Squalane are twins, both are great, but Squalene will keep you clubbing until 6am because you have to work the next day, whereas the other Squalane gets the job done at a reasonable hour.
While you get the skincare benefits of a moisturiser rich in Squalane, there is a downside to this moisturising ingredient: a few years ago, it was discovered that shark livers (yes, sharks, found in the sea) were rich in Squalene so it was thought that the emollient was used in skincare. In recent years, it has become harder to find products containing Squalene in the UK, instead Squalene derivatives are made from olives, rice bran and sugar cane.
Quick facts about Squalene:
Occurs naturally in the body
Moisturise skin, but effectiveness decreases after age 30
Found in shark livers, formerly used to make skincare products
Today, natural sources such as rice germ, olives and sugar cane are used as additives in skincare products
Very unstable and cannot be mixed into skincare formulas
Squalene must go through a hydrogenation process to become Squalane, which is then added to skincare products
What does Squalene do for your skin?
Squalene is the ultimate moisturizer, helping the skin retain moisture for a healthier, more radiant look. The antioxidant properties also fight any free radicals that could alter the appearance, structure, and function of the skin. Using squalane products, such as serums and moisturizers, can first significantly improve the appearance of sun damage and early signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and insufficient collagen production.
Which skin types can use squalene?
You’ll find that all skin types can benefit from introducing squalene into their daily routine. Dry skin will love its extreme hydration, while oily and acne-prone skin will find squalene a great alternative to nourishing facial oils because it’s non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog pores or cause breakouts. Even those with rosacea, eczema, and redness will find that the anti-inflammatory properties help soothe and calm their complexion. If you have sensitive skin, you won’t have to worry about this product causing irritation, as it’s unscented and gentle on the skin. However, as with any new product you introduce into your skincare routine (especially if you have sensitive skin), it’s important to be careful and build tolerance to the product over time.
How to Use Squalene?
You can find hydrogenated squalene (squalane) in many different products, from cleansers to moisturizers. Since squalene doesn’t cause irritation or other skin issues, you can use a wide variety of products containing squalene in your daily routine.
However, if you’re worried that this is too much for your skin, it’s better to opt for a moisturizer or serum, as these products stay on the skin longer and allow it to Squalene can retain moisture and rejuvenate the skin for a more youthful, plump complexion.
Is squalene better than hyaluronic acid?
As a savvy skincare enthusiast, you may be wondering what the similarities are between squalene and hyaluronic acid and how they can benefit the skin. Hyaluronic acid can penetrate the skin and retain moisture, but unfortunately it doesn’t maintain long-term effects. For more information on the benefits of hyaluronic acid, see our blog post on the skincare benefits of hyaluronic acid.
Squalene is compared to hyaluronic acid primarily because of its impressive ability to draw moisture from the face and bind it within the skin, giving it enough time to be fully absorbed and infuse the protective barrier with glowing hydration.
What are the dangers of using squalene?
As mentioned before, there are no particular dangers to using squalene in your skin care routine. However, even if your skin has never shown signs of sensitivity before, it’s always a good idea to do a patch test. If there is no irritation or allergic reaction after 24 hours, you can use squalene.
The only real “danger” in using squalene is finding out where the ingredient is sourced from. When buying squalene, always make sure it is plant-based and not extracted from shark livers, as this is not ethical, sustainable, or environmentally friendly.
This is just another wonderful skin care ingredient worth trying. Because it can be incorporated into almost any skin care routine, the hydration will make your skin look younger and healthier. You have to admit, that makes up for the letter confusion of squalane and squalene, right? The results you’ll see will be worth it!