It’s clear that acids, especially those in the AHA and BHA families, are one of many of our favourite skincare products. Given their ability to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, revive tired complexions or combat discoloration, it’s no wonder that we all have a product or two in our skincare collections that contain these powerful ingredients.
There’s another ingredient that’s well known for its benefits to the skin: Vitamin C. It has a long history in the beauty industry, but it got off to a rocky start after being labelled an unstable ingredient that often caused skin irritation when combined with other active ingredients. . Thanks to modern technology and new research, this is no longer the case, meaning that now more than ever, everyone can benefit from this glow-restoring ingredient.
The question we and others have faced is: Can I take Vitamin C after an AHA? We’ll explore this in more detail, but before we get started, I’ll give you a quick summary of the benefits of these ingredients and how they affect the skin.
What is Vitamin C?
Known for its ability to target hyperpigmentation, dark spots, age spots and sun-damaged areas.
Rich in antioxidants, it helps protect the skin from free radicals such as pollution, UV rays, central heating and other environmental aggressors.
Helps reduce areas of dry, blotchy, and flaky skin.
Increases collagen production to fight signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity.
You can learn more about Vitamin C in our dedicated blog post, so be sure to check it out.
What are AHAs?
AHAs, also known as alpha hydroxy acids, are a collection of chemical exfoliants.
The most common and well-known AHAs are glycolic, lactic, and citric acids.
There are a variety of acids with different molecular sizes that work on the skin in similar ways while providing their own unique benefits.
The exfoliation of these acids helps loosen the bonds of surface dead skin cells that can make your complexion look dull.
They help target problem areas like hyperpigmentation, signs of aging, and skin issues like acne and blemishes.
There is a separate blog post covering AHAs and their effects on the skin. So stop by to learn more.
Should I use AHAs first or Vitamin C?
Many skin care experts believe that using AHAs before using a Vitamin C product provides the best results. This is because the acids remove the buildup of dead skin cells that usually form a barrier on the surface of the skin. Once removed, your vitamin C product will be absorbed quickly and effectively.
How it works has to do with pH and how this changes the pH of your skin, which is naturally acidic. Once you apply an acid (usually between 3.0 and 4.0), you create the optimal environment for the application of vitamin C (also known as L-ascorbic acid). It is important to realize that the skin may become irritated and lose the essential oils it needs to stay healthy. Therefore, it is best to consult a dermatologist or doctor to ensure that you are using the best ingredients and getting the best results for your skin.
Can you use vitamin C after a peel?
Yes, you absolutely can! You will find that applying a high concentration of vitamin C after exfoliating can enhance the activity of the active ingredients and improve the overall look and feel of your complexion. The skin feels firmer and problem areas such as hyperpigmentation and dark spots are visibly reduced.
If you are wondering if vitamin C can exfoliate the skin, the answer is no. However, it does help increase skin cell turnover and bring new, fresh skin cells to the surface. This explains why vitamin C has a reputation for making the skin radiant, healthy and bright.
People with sensitive skin may find exfoliation with chemical or physical exfoliants too harsh and experience increased irritation, redness, and dryness. This can be avoided if you choose to exfoliate with lactic acid, as this is a gentler AHA. You should then wait at least 30 minutes before applying your vitamin C serum. Finally, use a moisturizer or serum with hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture in your skin, reduce the risk of unnecessary dryness and reduce irritation. As an extra precaution, you can also do a 24-hour patch test before applying any products to your skin. This will help you determine if your skin is happy with the active ingredients being applied to your skin, especially if you have never used any of these ingredients before.
Can Vitamin C be used after a BHA?
This is not the case, and this is because BHAs work differently on the skin than AHAs. You will find that salicylic acid (the most common) will penetrate deeper into the skin. This is possible because of its smaller molecular size compared to AHAs. If you have an oily and acne-prone skin type, this ensures that salicylic acid and other salicylates are highly effective ingredients as they penetrate into the pores to remove excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and other impurities.
While BHAs are very effective, they are notoriously strong and when you apply Vitamin C to your skin, you can expect severe irritation, redness, increased sensitivity to light, and severe dryness. For best results without side effects, I recommend alternating each active ingredient. Start your morning routine with Vitamin C as its antioxidant properties protect the skin from daily oxidative stress. Apply a salicylic acid like BHA at night to penetrate deep into the underlying layers and stay undisturbed during your beauty sleep.
