Microneedling and lactic acid, one is a popular treatment and the other is a popular ingredient in skincare. Since both offer impressive results, you wonder how or if you can combine them together. Before we get into that, let’s quickly review what lactic acid is and how microneedling works, hopefully that makes more sense and we can see who’s paying attention!
What is microneedling?
Microneedling uses tiny sterilized needles that help stimulate collagen production.
The needles range from 0.5 to 2.5 in diameter and feel like light needles. They don’t penetrate too deep into the surface of the skin.
It improves the appearance of acne scars and superficial minor wounds.
Fine lines and wrinkles are reduced and skin becomes firmer.
Targets hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun-damaged areas.
Can be used all over the body, from the skin to the scalp to the feet.
This minimally invasive treatment dates back to 1995 and has come a long way. With new technology and a slew of new skincare enthusiasts seeking out their nearest doctor.
The results are immediate and also ensure plumper, younger-looking skin in the long run.
What is Lactic Acid?
A chemical peel that belongs to the class of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
Derived from sour milk, it was developed synthetically for use in skincare.
Has a larger molecular size, which means it cannot penetrate the lower dermis and can cause irritation and dryness.
Works on the outer surface, removing dead skin cells, bacteria, dirt and debris that can build up and cause breakouts, making your complexion look dull.
Has hydrating properties, which means it draws moisture into the skin and locks it into the skin barrier, strengthening it and protecting it from free radicals and other environmental aggressors.
If you want to learn more about lactic acid and its benefits for your skin, read our dedicated blog post.
Can lactic acid be used after microneedling?
Not really, while lactic acid is one of the gentlest forms of AHA, it should be applied to the skin after microneedling. This is because exfoliation is one of the main benefits of lactic acid, otherwise it can cause too much irritation. When the tiny needles are rolled over the skin during microneedling, the skin is stimulated to think that the surface has been damaged, so it starts to produce collagen. While this can irritate the skin, it can also temporarily weaken the skin, meaning anything you apply to the skin will penetrate deeper into the skin. This can be a problem with products like acids, which can become too strong and cause irritation and other unwanted side effects.
When can you apply acids after microneedling?
Chemical peels and similar acids like glycolic and salicylic acid should be avoided for at least 2-3 days during the healing period after a microneedling treatment. This prevents these peels from over-irritating the skin and causing redness, dryness, and irritation. You should also avoid other active ingredients like any form of retinoids, as these can cause negative side effects.
However, if the acid you used is hyaluronic acid, you can apply it to your skin after the microneedling treatment is complete. Because even though it’s called an acid, HA works differently because it doesn’t exfoliate the skin. Instead, it’s known for its hydrating properties, making it a powerful ingredient because it locks in moisture, boosts collagen production, and hydrates the skin.
You can apply acids to your skin after 2-3 days, but I recommend doing this after applying hyaluronic acid to avoid irritation. It’s also very important to apply SPF 50 daily to protect your skin from UV rays.
What shouldn’t you do after microneedling?
As I mentioned before, you should avoid skin ingredients like retinol, AHA, BHA, and vitamin C after microneedling. You should also avoid anything with a strong scent, as this can cause redness and increased sensitivity.
Many dermatologists recommend waiting at least 48 hours before applying makeup or cleansers to your skin. Before applying active ingredients, especially those as potent as retinol and vitamin C.
If you’re concerned about what to apply to your skin after microneedling, I highly recommend consulting your doctor, dermatologist, or the professional who performed your treatment.
What serum should you use after microneedling?
Hyaluronic acid is the best serum for microneedling. As I mentioned before, a clever moisturizer can provide impressive hydration without increasing the risk of skin sensitivity and adverse reactions.
Because HA can bind twice its molecular weight of water, the skin is moisturized. The surface of the skin looks plumper and younger after treatment, while the skin is soothed. After microneedling, the skin will often feel tight and dry, which, if not done, can cause a lot of discomfort and weaken the skin barrier. This leaves the skin vulnerable to further damage and stimulates sebum production, which in turn leads to excess oil and negative effects like frequent breakouts, skin problems, and complexion blemishes.
Can I take Vitamin C after microneedling?
No, actually not, as Vitamin C can cause skin irritation after microneedling. You’ll find that the powerful energy source penetrates too deep into the dermis, causing increased sensitivity, severe dryness, irritation, redness, and a weakened skin barrier. In other words, your skin will become more damaged and existing damage will become more severe. As with the other acids mentioned, for best results and no side effects, wait 2-3 days after microneedling before using Vitamin C.
